Posted by I couldn’t believe what I was seeing on the screen of my phone. Black Button Distilling, One of Rochester’s most beloved purveyors of local spirits, was closing its doors.
This one hurt a little bit. Black Button worked hard to collaborate with other local brands and support togetherness around great beverages in our community. It had expanded its operation and its location. It was even a stop on my bachelor party crawl almost exactly 7 years ago. Sales began in 2013, as did its reputation and identification as Rochester greatest distillery.
In a 2018 post, I wrote about how micro-breweries were a scalable compliments to cities, creating small gathering place for people and neighborhood. As I have visited cities across New York, I have championed the micro-brewery model as a way of reviving areas that have been lifeless for decades. I still believe they are engines for growth and renewed interest in a neighborhood or area, but suddenly, more and more of these former social furnaces are struggling to stay afloat.
Nine-Spot Brewing, Roc Brewing and Heroes Brewing in downtown Rochester have all closed in the last two years. Just outside of Rochester, CB Craft Breweries, which was one of the first craft breweries in the area, closed in 2019. Brindle Haus, K2 Brothers, Copper Leaf and Seven Story are all breweries that have closed their doors in the last few years. Some have seen renewed life under different ownership (Spotted Octopus out of Buffalo recently began operating the former Roc Brewing location). But the message is clear… something is shifting. Alcohol use is down in the U.S., and there are many factors impacting this trend.
Rising Costs
The cost of goods and services have skyrocketed in the last 5 years. This works against businesses like breweries in two ways. Production costs are rising, while Americans have less in their pocket to spend on non-essential transactions.
Health Awareness
More and more health data is showing just how damaging regular alcohol use can be to our health. There is simply more direct proof showing the negative health effects of drinking.
Gen Z
Young Americans are consuming less alcohol, and the drop-off is quite pronounced. “Sober curious” has become a popular term that has defined this departure from other generations.
However, there is evidence that Gen Z is beginning to fall in line with other generations with regard to alcohol consumption. Perhaps this generation is simply waiting longer before diving in to the alcohol scene.
Marijuana
The expanded legalization of marijuana and the explosion of edibles, gummies and other consumables has likely had an impact on alcohol sales and consumption. From my personal experience, which I acknowledge is not scientifically relevant, the young people I interact with are making the switch to cannabis products to help calm anxiety, get a buzz without a hangover, and feel relaxed without the damaging health effects of alcohol (though science does not yet have the data to accurately predict the long-term health effects). This is not a cheaper alternative, but it is one that I find more people believe has less consequential outcomes.
What Does This Mean For Our Cities?
In New York State, dispensaries are popping up everywhere. But there is still tremendous confusion regarding what is legal and what is not. If the laws become more defined, perhaps there is a scenario where cannabis outlets can become engines of growth the same way breweries have been in urban neighborhoods over the last 15-20 years.
But as we stand here today, the former quick-fix for neighborhood revitalization is beginning to feel the pressure of a changing economic and social scenario. Breweries and distilleries are falling victim to an America that is becoming more skeptical of the economy and the future.
And then there is the question that has to be asked. Why are our urban destinations defined by products that have negative impacts on our public health? Full disclosure, I ask this question as someone who admittedly frequently indulges, as anyone who has followed this blog for a decade clearly knows. I am not judging as I am an eager and willing participant. But from a greater good perspective, I have to question whether alcohol should be the key component for urban revitalization, given recent public health findings. This is a complex issue that digs deep into social trends, an uncertain economy, and our own personal motivations. I don’t allow comments on this blog, but feel free to email me at theurbanphoenixblog@gmail.com with your thoughts.